If you missed the start of our Tour du Mont Blanc adventure - you can read about:
Day 1 - Chamonix to Refuge La Balme
Day 2 - Refuge La Balme to Refuge des Mottets
Days 3 & 4 - Refuge des Mottets to Courmayeur
Day 5 - Courmayeur to La Peule
Day 6 - La Peule to Champex-Lac and Relais D’Arpette
DAY 7 - RELAIS D’ARPETTE TO LE PEUTY VIA THE FENETRE D’ARPETTE VARIANT
Our “Day 7” of the Tour du Mont Blanc was what most would consider “Stage 8 of the Tour du Mont Blanc.”
Stage 8 delivered one of the most challenging — and memorable — stages of our entire trek. Hiking from Relais d’Arpette to Le Peuty via the Fenêtre d’Arpette variant is widely considered the most technically difficult section of the TMB.
It’s also one of the most rewarding — if you’re prepared for it.
If you’re debating between the Fenêtre d’Arpette and the Bovine route, here’s exactly what this day is like, including difficulty, terrain, elevation, and whether it’s worth it.
Quick Stats: Tour du Mont Blanc STAGE 8 (Fenêtre d’Arpette Variant)
Distance: 7.23 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,281 feet
Difficulty: Very challenging
Terrain: Steep ascents, boulder fields, loose rock descent
tRAIL: VIA ALLTRAILS
where we stayed: REFUGE LE PEUTY
While the mileage may look short and simple, don’t be fooled! This is a long, technical day that demands physical endurance and mental focus.
Why Stay at Relais d’Arpette Instead of Champex-Lac?
Staying at Relais d’Arpette the night before was a strategic move now that I look back at it. Many hikers base themselves in Champex-Lac, but we had about a 45 minute, 2 mile head start on people starting in town. It reduced a bit of elevation gain as well. After a solid refuge breakfast (yogurt, almonds, raisins, and cappuccino machine - a true luxury on the trail), we picked up our picnic lunch and hit the trail at 8:20 AM.
The trail started with a gradual uphill path that felt deceptively relaxed. But after turning into the forest, the terrain quickly shifted. The Fenêtre d’Arpette variant is known for its steep elevation gain, rocky terrain, and sections of scrambling as you approach the pass.
It was one of those trails where time flies because your brain is so preoccupied with thinking about each step. Honestly, I preferred this climb to all of the others and was feeling pretty proud of myself when we finished the first portion. I was like, “that wasn’t so bad, why did everyone hype this up?” Then you walk around a corner and realize there’s a LOTTT more to go.
It’s a lot of stepping UP and we went slow but steady. And then, the boulder field I had read about came into view. And after THAT another huge climb. Once we could actually see the saddle we were headed to it was a little bit of an, “Oh shit” moment but I had a ton of fun! The boulder field was awesome in an “OMG this is hard and a little scary and insane” kind of way. I was truly climbing over rocks on all fours.
The final steep climb up was honestly ridiculous, I could only laugh and keep stepping up. We got lucky at the top and there was barely a breeze. Reaching the Fenêtre d’Arpette is a true accomplishment, both physically and mentally, and offers some seriously breathtaking views. We could have sat and eaten lunch, but I wanted to get some of the rough downhill over with. So we had a protein bar and took some pictures and started the descent.
Loose, slippery rock and extremely steep terrain made for painfully slow progress. Our quads and knees worked overtime acting as brakes. The view of Trient Glacier alongside us helped, but the downhill was easily the hardest part of the day.
I was very over it and thought we would never get to the lunch spot we had read about. But eventually, one foot in front of the other, made it to a few picnic tables (packed) and a really stunning view. The descent we had just done, the saddle we had been at, and a giant glacier with water rushing down the mountainside were all spread out before us as we had our couscous salad with egg lunch bowl and an apple.
The only motivation to continue our slow march downhill was the apricot and strawberry gelato we had heard would be waiting for us at Chalet du Glaciers.
Some parts of this downhill were more manageable, especially once we got into the woods. My knee was starting to bother me but we made it to gelato which was obviously very delicious and welcomed!
The final downhill into Le Peuty was made better by me being THAT person who played two songs out of my phone (AOK) which really brought the vibes back up for me when I was fading for the boring last stretch through woods/roads.
It ended up only being a 7 mile day but damn if they weren’t some of the hardest so far!
Fenêtre d’Arpette vs. Bovine Route: Which Should You Choose?
If you’re planning your Tour du Mont Blanc itinerary and wondering whether the Fenêtre d’Arpette variant is worth it, this stage offers a unique challenge and some of the most dramatic alpine scenery on the route — but it’s best suited for experienced hikers comfortable with steep, rocky terrain.
If you take the Bovine Route, you’ll have a little more mileage, but less extreme elevation gain/loss and steepness. You’ll have views of the Rhone Valley and the Bernese Alps, walking through pastures with grazing cattle and passing by an auberge along the way (you won’t hit any auberge’s until the end of the day if you choose to do the Fenetre D’Arpette variant and will likely want to pack your own lunch).
WHY SHOULD i SKIP THE Fenêtre d’Arpette VARIANT?
The biggest reason to skip the Fenetre D’Arpette variant of the Tour du Mont Blanc is in the case of poor weather conditions. Since the top of the Fenetre D’Arpette is at an elevation of 8,743 feet compared to the Bovine Route’s max elevation of 6,693 feet, this is a variant that should only be undertaken when conditions are ideal.
The Fenetre D’Arpette variant could become dangerous in windy or rainy conditions because of the steepness and the scrambling section before reaching the saddle.
Even if the weather is great - if you don’t love a rock scramble, this variant is not going to be fun for you ESPECIALLY if you are not using luggage forwarding services and are doing the rock scramble with a heavy backpacking backpack.
Another reason to skip is if you have any injuries that flair up during downhill stretches of hiking. The descent is pretty demanding and punishing.
HOW LONG DOES THE Fenêtre d’Arpette VARIANT TAKE?
According to my Strava recording, our moving time was just under 4 hours, but our total time on the trail was closer to 8 hours! So be prepared for a full day.
TIPS FOR TACKLING THE Fenêtre d’Arpette VARIANT?
Only tackle this route in good weather
Once you encounter the boulder field - put your poles away. They’ll just get stuck between rocks and be in your way - you’ll need your hands for scrambling!
Make sure to pack a lunch or pick-up a picnic lunch from your hut prior to starting your day - you won’t get to the Chalet du Glaciers until the very end of your day.
If you’re a little on edge about the scramble, this would be a great day to opt for luggage forwarding services so you can scramble unencumbered
Enjoy the view at the top! We probably could have hung out a little longer taking in the views but I was anxious about the descent and feel like I rushed us off the saddle.
Make sure to treat yourself with gelato at Chalet du Glaciers! The Fenetre D’Arpette variant is an accomplishment!
Staying at Le Peuty Hut
Le Peuty hut was…charming! By far the nicest lady at check-in and kind of has hippy vibes. The dorm is dark and barn-like - everyone sleeps in a big loft.
There is no WiFi even though we are close to town, there’s a camping area attached that looks pretty nice, and there’s a larger food menu with burgers and FRIES which Soma ate upon arrival. My only complain during our pre-dinner shower/cards/snacking is that there were a lot of black flies buzzing around.
The all female staff at Le Peuty were so friendly and dinner (served in a yurt!) was my favorite of the trip. We had 4 courses - crostini with tapenade, tomato soup, salad with grilled pears and a chicken curry with rice. Plus fresh berries from their garden with cream over amaretto soaked Biscoff cookies for dessert. I went to bed quickly after that - I was beat!
Final Thoughts: Was It Worth It?
This day was a challenge for sure.
I LOVED the variant up to Fenetre d’Arpette, but I did NOT love the brutal downhill the second half of the day!
But would I choose the Fenêtre d’Arpette variant again? Yes.
It’s one of the most dramatic, engaging, and memorable days on the Tour du Mont Blanc — and it feels like a true alpine accomplishment.
If you’re planning your Tour du Mont Blanc itinerary and wondering whether to take the harder route, I say go for it!