There’s no way around it - traveling on your own is more expensive than traveling with friends and partners. While I think the travel industry should do more to encourage solo travelers, the current state of affairs means going at it alone means paying double which is a big road block to people who are curious about a solo adventure. I wanted to share a realistic breakdown of my one week road trip through Southern Utah.
It seems my new fall tradition is to take a solo road trip and remind myself what it’s like to drive a car! Last fall I explored New Mexico, and this October I found myself winding my way through California’s curviest roads as I traveled Highway 1 from SF to SLO, Tioga Road in Yosemite National Park, King’s Canyon Scenic Byway in King’s Canyon National Park and General’s Highway in Sequoia National Park.
I took turns between being terrified of plunging to my death, in awe of my beautiful natural surroundings, and slightly dizzy/queasy.
Here’s how it went down.
Before I jump into my Croatia trip recap - which tends to be very long and very detailed - I’m going to post the general itinerary. A 50,000 day-by-day journal isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.
For my friends and I, Croatia in the off-season was a dream. The places that are overflowing with tourists in July and August we had almost entirely to ourselves. That being said - if you’re looking to go enjoy Croatia’s beaches, swim in the blue waters, and party with the yacht week clientele - April is probably going to be a bit of a bummer for you.
Two bedroom, three bed, one bath. The highlight of this Airbnb was the fact that it was located right in Old Town - in fact, we had to walk up the famous Game of Thrones “Shame” stairs to get to our Airbnb!
We booked a historic walking tour through Viator, but there is also a huge selection of Game of Thrones specific tours.
This was one of the coolest things I have ever done. It’s mind blowing to think that these walls have been standing since the 13th Century. This is one of the things that probably wouldn’t have been as enjoyable in July/August.
A ticket to walk the city walls costs 250 kuna (around $35 USD). Check this website for hours. The main entrance to the walls is at Pile Gate - but there are also entrances at Ploce gate and St. John’s Fortress. Everyone must walk in one direction on the walls.
We ordered a picnic with Piknic Dubrovnik and it was one of the most special travel experiences I’ve had. Alex, the creator & founder, was absolutely amazing to work with. We decided last minute to change the day of our picnic - because the bora (crazy Croatian winds off of the Adriatic) were not cooperating. Alex was flexible and in fact, willing to let us cancel up until the morning of. I’ll go in to more detail in my day-by-day recap of the trip - but trust me, you’ll want to book one of these!
This may seem like an odd food recommendation - but these were the perfect affordable lunch to grab while walking around Old Town. The line outside and the intoxicating smell lured us in and we were very happy about it.
These cliffside bars would definitely be a scene in the summertime (and a good spot for a swim), but we still enjoyed their views and a solitary sunset. Buza Bar is likely the most well-known (and most Instagrammed) but check out Beach Bar Dodo too!
We were shocked to find that this hike to overlook the city was mercifully absent of the crazy winds we had been experiencing in the Old Town. Granted, once we got to the very top lookout, we almost blew away, but the rest of the 3.1 miles was the perfect bit of exercise and the views were amazing for just a 3.1 mile out and back trail.
Make sure you know where your ferry is going - Mljet has multiple ferry ports - Pomena and Polace are closest to the National Park while the Sobra ferry port allows you to drive on cars but is further east of the National Park.
Two bedroom, two bath apartment less than a 5 minute walk off of the ferry. It was a good sign that almost everyone that got off the ferry was checking into the same place as us! Since we were there in the off season and the market wasn’t open, we opted for the breakfast provided by the family who owns the guesthouses. It was about 30 kuna per person .
This was by far the best way to get around the island. We were staying in Pomena - but there are a number of other small towns around the island. It’s such a stunning bike ride and any cyclist will find what they’re looking for - whether it’s the well-paved, flat path around the lakes, mountain biking trails, or hilly roads to climb. Our host arranged our bikes for us - but there are places all over where you can rent bikes.
The highest viewpoint in the park - it will feel like complete inception. You’re on an island, but then there are lakes, with other islands in them - it’s a stunning 360 degree view and worth the uphill climb.
Your National Park entry ticket gives you one round-trip ride on the ferry to St. Mary where you can explore an old monastery and enjoy lunch with hypnotizing views. The ferry schedules are posted around the park - but pro tip - from the mainland to the west of the island - looking at Restaurant Melita - there’s a flag. Wave that flag, and restaurant staff will give you a personal boat ride over. No ferry schedule needed!
Granted, there were only two restaurant options available to us when we stayed in Pomena in April, but both nights we ate at Konoba Nine we thoroughly enjoyed. Order the fried calamari. And try a shot of rakija. Try to time your dinner with the sunset - because the views are absolutely unreal.
Very easy and affordable ferry from Mljet to Split.
Two bedroom, one bath apartment about a 10 minute walk off of the ferry. Very close to everything we wanted/needed to do in Split including picking up our rental car from around the corner!
We booked this absolutely incredible (and insane) full day tour with Iris Adventures that had us sliding and rappelling our way through the Cetina River gorge. The area, about an hour outside of the city, is absolutely beautiful.
It just so happened that this beer shop I had written down was right around the corner from our Airbnb! The man working was really nice and gave us a bunch of local beers to try.
I know, you probably think I’ve lost it. But honestly - this was the best bacon egg and cheese I’ve ever had outside of NY!
I think we would all agree that one more day in Split would have been nice - we didn’t have much time to explore the Old Town streets or take a walking tour which I think we all would have enjoyed!
We were lucky that my friend knows how to drive stick-shift and therefore renting a car in Croatia was pretty affordable. It gave us the opportunity to adventure off the beat path a bit on our route from Split to the capital city of Zagreb - stopping at Krka National Park, Bibich Winery, Slunj and Plitvice National Park.
We rented a car in Split and stopped at Krka on our way to our next destination, but Split is the perfect city for a day trip to Krka (there are also tours you can book if you don’t want to rent a car!) It’s a popular destination, but thanks to a mix of a bad forecast and it being mid-week during the off-season, we really lucked out and there was barely anyone there.
You can pre-book tickets online, though it definitely wasn’t necessary when we went. Note that there are different entrances to the park - the closest en route from Split are Skradin and Lozovac.
If you have a car and are able to make it to BIBICh - you won’t regret it! This ended up being one of my favorite parts of the trip. Again, we found ourselves essentially alone and therefore, had a private wine tasting experience with the incredibly lovely staff. The wine was great, we learned a ton, and the sandwich was the best thing I ate on the entire trip. No debate. You can make reservations on their website!
We based ourselves out of Slunj, a small town extremely close to Plitvice Lakes National Park - so we could get up and out to to the park. Plitvice is a much larger park than Krka, and in our experience, much more crowded. The nice think about Plitvice is that there’s the ability to get off the beaten path a bit - though you’ll be fighting the crowds anytime you get up close and personal with the waterfalls. If you want to spend a full day walking - Plitvice has you covered. We walked a solid 10 miles during our visit. Again - there are multiple entrances so if you’re purchasing in advance, make sure you know which one you’re looking for!
People also recommend spending some time in the town of Šibenik - about 15 minutes outside of Krka National Park.
When we had visited Krka, stayed a night in the sleepy town of Slunj and explored Plitvice Lakes - it was time to trade trees for city streets as we headed to our final destination - the capital city of Zagreb. Upon arrival we ditched the rental car - Zagreb is a very walking friendly city.
Cannot recommend this spot more highly. The owner was SO enthusiastic about making sure we had the best time in Zagreb - and the rooms were really nice and so centrally located! Just note that payment is cash only.
We learned so much during our walking tour of Zagreb - did you know the tie originated in Croatia as part of their military uniform (cravat stems from Croat!). We got to see the canon go off at Lotrscak Tower, and our guide gave us so many recommendations for places to eat and drink around town. And it was all free! They do ask that you register in advance. And don’t forget to tip your tour guide!
Ok, it’s actually called Ivana Tkalčića Street but even the locals refer to this pedestrian-only street filled with restaurants, bars and cafes as “bar street.” No trip to Zagreb is complete without at least a few beverages sitting out on the bar street.
7 parks and squares make up Lenuc’s Green Horseshoe which you should definitely walk through. Another green space worthy of a visit is Park Ribnjak behind the Zagreb Cathedral.
This bar is attached to the The Swanky Mint Hostel - and it was BUMPIN’! It was a really cool space with friendly people and good vibes.
Wow - if you’re going to eat one thing in Zagreb, it should be this cheese-y dish called strukli which La Struk specializes in. In fact, it’s all that they serve, which is how you know it’s going to be good! Strukli is kinda of like lasagna, but with a dough that’s a bit softer and chewier than pasta. I’m doing a bad job of explaining it - but go get it when you’re in Zagreb. Strukli takes 20 minutes to prepare*
Everyone said to go here, and I think Callie and I were a little skeptical at first. But it really is worth a visit! I loved reading about the various objects collected by the museum - some were heartbreaking, some were funny, some were bizarre.
Croatia was an incredible trip - the people were so welcoming and the country is absolutely stunning - with fascinating history. Have any questions or recommendations for readers? Drop a comment below :)
230 Miles
This was big for me! I also filled the car up with gas for the first time- everything was fine except that the rental car’s gas door was broken so when I popped it, it just flew completely off.
7.3 Miles
I absolutely LOVED the trails at Dale Ball - close to the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, these were fun rolling hills and there were so many options - I could have stayed running there forever. There were a decent amount of people around and you’re never really too far from the parking lot so I felt super self being on my own. It was also a bonus that it’s really close to the downtown area, so I had cell service pretty much the entire time I was out there.
659 Feet
$68.30 per night to stay at the Santa Fe Treehouse Camp - my first experience booking through Hip Camp (think Airbnb for tents and treehouses and trailers and yurts!)
This was a bare bones treehouse/hut about 20-25 miles outside of Santa Fe .
I borrowed bedding for $25 – one of the sheets looked like it had been attacked in a knife fight, but the down blanket kept me comfy and cozy up in the mountains where temps dropped to around 40 over night!
The came had sufficient WiFi and cell service so that my family knew I was alive at all times, but spotty enough to not make it worth it to spend much time on your phone! Disconnect, baby!
I had no issues with my rental car getting to the treehouses despite a long stretch of unpaved, hilly roads. I would plan on having four-wheel drive if there’s been rain or snow!
Usually I’m all about a central location, within walking distance or all the shops and restaurants, but I have to say, driving 20 minutes to my secluded little tree house at the end of each day was relaxing and refreshing and even if I could have afforded a fancy hotel room in Santa Fe Plaza, I think I would have chosen my treehouse.
I had one lightbulb (prepare to read by headlamp) and one outlet (reserved for Garmin charging, obviously!)
There was an amazing outdoor communal kitchen with truly anything you could want/need
Communal firepits - but be sure fires are allowed depending on the time of year.
Friendly owners – Brad greeted me when I arrived and gave me the full tour. He also offers activities during the week for added costs like tomahawk throwing and archery.
Private access to hiking trails (I am sad I didn’t get to summit Shaggy Peak!)
Stargazing galore
Hot showers and warm bathrooms
I started day two with a soak session in a private hot spring at Riverbend Hot Springs - a short walk from my glamping tent in Truth or Consequences. For around $40 I had 50 minutes to soak - but I have to be honest - it wasn’t my favorite thing ever. I’m just very terrible at sitting still, plus it was a little too warm out for me to enjoy the 90 degree water. My favorite part was being able to pull a string and have freezing cold water rain down on me. Another bummer - the river was incredibly low and muddy, which detracted from what could have been an incredible view.
I will admit when I first saw my treehouse in comparison to my glamping tent I was a little horrified. It was a big change from my glamping tent! But you know what? It ended up being my favorite part of the trip. I got the best nights sleep of my life, somehow! 4 hours and 45 minutes of deep sleep. HIYAHHHH.
I was really proud of how quickly I was able to turn my, “Oh my god I’m supposed to sleep here?” attitude into, “This is just like backpacking! It’s going to be great!”
9 Hours 58 Minutes!!!!
The time finally came for me to take my first solo trip - and a road trip, nonetheless. As someone who isn’t a HUGE fan of driving, a road trip through New Mexico wouldn’t have been my first choice for a solitary adventure - but when a work trip brought me to El Paso, Texas, right on the border of New Mexico, I couldn’t resist heading for the desert landscapes, art galleries and hot springs.
158 Miles
El Paso to Las Cruces to Truth or Consequences
Fun fact - while driving through New Mexico you won’t have to worry about paying for tolls!
Rental car pick up was pretty smooth - other than the fact that once I added coverage to the reservation it costs me over $500 for the week from a rental company called Payless. False advertising. I got my GPS mount set up, my Bluetooth connected and Armchair Expert playing and set out for Las Cruces, New Mexico - a quick hour drive from El Paso.
8.8 Miles
The drive to the Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument was actually not bad at all - and I feel very comfortable in my little Hyundai Range rental. Eventually I drove through a mountain pass and found myself fully in the mountains. I turned down the 6 mile winding road to Aguirre Spring Recreation Area and had stunning views of the eastern side of the Organ Mountains. The range really reminded me of the Superstition Mountains in Arizona.
When I made it to the campground and parking area - I realized I had given my last $5 to the hotel shuttle driver for helping me with my luggage and I wouldn’t be able to pay the permit fee (I understand people that work for the parks departments are typically crunchy granola back-to-basics people but can we get with the 21st century on things like your websites and permits? Can I Venmo you my parking fee?).
I decided to risk it - and ripped off the parking permit portion without actually paying and stuck it in my windshield - I felt bad, and I would have been happy to pay, I just physically had no money (and uhm, who travels with their check book?)
I found the start of the Pine Tree Trail and set off for a trail run! The up hills were steeper than anticipated and I did a decent amount of hiking as opposed to running but the views were stunning and there were so many butterflies! There were also a LOT of dinosaur-sized crickets hopping all over.
The second half was a fun downhill and though I saw a snake tail slithering away at one point - overall it was a great time. Looking at Strava afterwards, it seems like a lot of trail runners combine this 4 mile loop (that was actually more like 5 for me) with the Baylor Canyon Pass trail I had also considered doing for a total of 15 miles.
I wrapped up with some running around the campground road for a total of 6 miles and hopped back in the car to check out another trail. I was looking for the Tortugas Mountain Trail but after driving up a dirt road for a bit, I came across a big “CLOSED” gate and had to turn around. I was pretty tired and hungry at that point anyway, so it was fine.
I stopped at a state park in Radium Springs - Leasburg Dam State Park - and had some carrots, hummus and apple on a picnic table before continuing my journey to the town of Truth or Consequences.
Biggest observance on my drive? There are bugs so large I can see them cross the street. This is horrifying to me.
1,250 Feet
$126.60 for a night at the Hot Springs Glamp Camp in Truth or Consequences
Truth or Consequences, what a name, right? T or C (TorC) for short - earned its name thanks to a radio show contest (kind of like when my town asked a bunch of school kids to name the new park and we landed on The Wedge).
The town is known for its natural hot springs - and I arrived at the Hot Springs Glamp Camp and was immediately in love with my trendy little glamping tent with string lights, a fridge (“swamp box”), fans, French press, and heated mattress.
The best part about the Glamp Camp? 4 private hot springs open 24/7. The camp host greeted me and gave me a quick tour (he and his wife got here two weeks ago from Brooklyn) and I headed out on foot to check out the town and grab some groceries.
Sadly, it was a Tuesday and nearly everything was closed but there was such a cute downtown street with a coffee shop, second hand store, book store, and a ton of other places I would have loved to check out.
I bought a premade salad at the grocery store and a few other things and made a pit stop at the only other place that was open - T or C Brewery! I asked for the haziest IPA and bought a crowler to bring back with me to my tent.
Back at the ranch, I was greeted by some people sitting out in the communal area with their dogs and said a quick hello before changing into my bathing suit and filling up one of the private tubs. It filled up pretty quickly and was the absolute perfect temperature. I obviously captured some #content as best I could without a tripod and then soaked and read on and off for about an hour.
The rest of the night was spent reading, blogging and - if we are being honest - catching up on Bachelor in Paradise. I didn’t manage to shower, oops.
Why I’d recommend the Hot Springs Glamp Camp:
Idyllic canvas tent with a seating area, bed (with heated mattress), coffee station, swamp box and fans – true aesthetic GOALS.
Communal bathrooms – super clean, with showers
Communal outdoor space with fire pit, grills, and seating
Private hot spring-fed tubs to soak in!
I started the morning with one of my favorite things - a breakfast buffet.
I had a weird but wonderful experience of three separate people reading my mind/knowing what I wanted before I even knew I wanted it.
The first was when I asked for a bellman to help me down to the lobby with my luggage - not something I ever request, but I had a ton of stuff with me and couldn’t really manage it all. When he loaded up the cart I said I would be down in a few minutes to get an Uber to the airport and he goes, “we have a shuttle, do you want a ride?” Uh - YES - had no idea they had a shuttle.
The second was when I was seated and ordered a water and the waitress goes - “do you want ice in that?” and I was like you know what - wow, I don’t want ice - no one ever asks that!
Last was when I was getting ready to leave and the waiter goes, “do you want a coffee to go?” and I said uhm, yep - that would actually be amazing.
First solo trail run and escaping without a parking ticket
Hazy IPA from the Truth or Consequences Brewery
Driving!
I found two MASSIVE black beetles I found scurrying around my tent - only to realize the bottom zipper hadn’t been sealed all day! EEEEEEK. I chased them down and crushed them with my “Wild” book only to Google them and realize they apparently can release a noxious smell when threatened - double EEEEK! So far, not smelling the remains of their crushed carcasses but who know what the morning will bring!
9 Hours 41 Minutes - can you tell I was coming out of a work event? Wowza!
On my desk there is a very tall tower of travel magazines. After flipping through them, I almost always have a new destination to add to my bucket list - a place I’ve either never heard of or never wanted to visit until an article or a picture captured my imagination.
In this new weekly series, I’ll share some of the lesser known destinations that have tickled my fancy in the recent months!
I’m always looking for under the radar travel destinations that have a lot to offer but aren’t yet “all the rage.” Imagine being one of the tourists who visited Iceland prior to 2016? Before the “Blue Lagoon” was featured in every twenty-somethings dating profile? That’s always my goal - to find the latest up and coming travel-worthy countries before they’re overrun with Instagram influencers.
So here’s week one of “Under the Radar Travel Destinations” - we’re kicking off with a popular destination among French travelers, but lesser known by Americans.
You’ll likely arrive in Corsica’s main port town, Bastia. Victor Hugo, author of Les Miserables, once lived here. Stop by the Mattei Concept Store and pick up a bottle of Cap Corse, a wine infused with orange and other local fruits.
Make your way from Bastia to the capital city of Ajaccio (where Napoleon was born) via train. Once you arrive and check-in, walk down the bustling Roi de Rome and stop for a drink or meal at popular places like Le 20123, L’8 Dicembri and Bar a Vin 1755 (temporarily closed due to COVID).
Be sure to take a walk to Pointe de la Parata at sunset to see Illes Sanguinaires (“The Blood Islands”) which turn a stunning red hue at the end of the day.
Plaza Foch is an open air food market worth a visit - keep an eye out for local specialties like clementines (November - January) and chestnuts (canistrelli biscuits are a biscotti-looking treat made from chestnut flour). If you’re craving something more savory, opt for a beignet au brocciu - a pastry with cheese in the middle.
Head to the town of Banifaio for a day relaxing at Plage de Sutta Rocca and take in the limestone cliffs.
Other places on the island worth a visit include the fishing village of Erbalunga, the resort town of Porticcio and another sea-side stop, Tiuccia.
If you’re really up for an adventure on this mountain island, you could set out to complete the GR20 - a 112 mile backpacking trip that travels north to south down the center of Corsica.
My favorite books are books that transport you. The best books are books where the setting becomes it’s own character, where I can feel myself getting to know a country or a region based on the author’s descriptions and the characters’ lives in that place. So I started thinking about what I would recommend as the best books to learn about new places. The best books if you miss traveling!
Recently, I took two weeks to go on a road trip through the state of Arizona.
Traveling, or not traveling, right now is a very personal decision and one that I did not take lightly. My friend and I agreed on some important things ahead of time - we would not be doing any indoor dining, museums, bars, etc.
Some nights, eating outside in November was more comfortable than others (plot twist: Arizona isn’t always warm). Some nights we cooked in our Airbnbs. If we encountered people without masks, even outdoors, we distanced ourselves from the situation.
I will mention things throughout these Arizona city guides in regards to how certain areas, restaurants, etc. handled coronavirus protocols.
But our overall goal for the trip was to hike, run, and generally spend time outside - alone. This was not the trip for trying all of Arizona’s restaurants and bars and museums and this guide reflects that.
You can read about our first stop, Phoenix & The Superstition Mountains here!
You can read about our second stop, Tucson & Saguaro National Park here!
You can read about our third stop, Williams & The Grand Canyon here!
You can read about our fourth stop, Page & The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area here!
Our next stop was Flagstaff, Arizona!
Another city, another Airbnb! Our Flagstaff Airbnb was an apartment located beneath a family’s house - they have two Airbnb units each with their own outdoor area on the deck. We had two bedrooms, one bathroom, access to laundry, and a cute little kitchen and living room area.
We were in Flagstaff for a little longer than our other spots, so I really settled into my King-sized bed!
Flagstaff is a great spot to base yourself on an Arizona trip - it’s about 90 minutes to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim entrance and under an hour to Sedona’s Red Rocks. In 2 and a half hours you can even reach Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend and Phoenix.
Flagstaff itself is a city surrounded by everything from mountains, to deserts to ponderosa pine forests. In the winter, it’s a ski destination (the Arizona Snowbowl ski resort) and it’s also a destination for athletes to train at altitude. We saw so many runners!
Flagstaff is also home to Northern Arizona University, a college with nearly 30,000 students. It definitely felt like a college town.
I would go out on a limb and say this was our most enjoyable meal of the trip - both because of the food and the atmosphere.
The Toasted Owl had a huge outdoor seating area and the sun was shining. We had run 10 miles before leaving Page and were ready for some brunch! But first, we started with a mason jar mimosa - for just $6!
Then, we split the Snowbowl Fiesta Plate (scrambled eggs topped with cheddar cheese, onions and green chile with (corn!) tortillas and potatoes. Then, we ordered two buttermilk pancakes - because you always need to order table pancakes.
Little did we know, the pancakes were the size of a dinner plate.
Nothing is more rewarding than being told by the waitress that they’re impressed with how much you ate…we came pretty close to finishing our monstrous pancakes!
Once we had finished our brunch we decided to explore the area and look for some breweries with outdoor seating.
Downtown Flagstaff has no shortage of craft breweries, in the area around the Toasted Owl we found no less than 6 in a half mile radius.
Lumberyard Brewing Company was our first stop - with a big patio, heat lamps and entirely digital ordering experience to limit the amount of time you’re in contact with waitstaff.
We got a flight and watched so many runners go by.
Right across from Toasted Owl was Mother Road Brewing Company and we were so upset to see that it was closed on Mondays. I’m including it on the list anyway - because their Station Tower IPA is one of the most popular Arizona pours! We were able to pick it up at a bodega in lieu of visiting the tap room.
The Station Tower’s description hits all my favorites - unfiltered, grapefruit peel and pine!
Our next brewery stop was to Dark Sky Brewing where we had to wait a little bit for an out door seat - only to find out that their heaters were out of propane.
We survived, though, with lots of layers - and enjoyed beers and even more so, pizza, from the breweries food partner, Pizzicletta.
We absolutely loved the “Bee’s Knees” - mozzarella, mascarpone, sausage, sage (<3) and local honey.
After our attempted hike to the top of Humphrey’s Peak (more on that later), we ordered delivery from Beaver Street Brewery - not only were we able to get burgers and fries, we were able to get a growler of one of their hazy IPAs.
The only disappointment was their corn bread. Otherwise, five stars for post-hike calories.
If you have the time (and tolerance) to fit in a few more breweries, these are all within walking distance of the previously mentioned spots:
And do me a favor, go pick up some donuts from Macy’s and let me know how they are since I never made it!
After my trip to New Hampshire this fall, an idea entered my brain that I should try to climb the tallest peak in each state (New Hampshire’s being Mount Washington). I was excited to see that Arizona’s highest point was in Flagstaff - Humphreys Peak in the San Francisco Peaks and part of the Kachina Wilderness.
Being November, we knew that the trail would have snow in places but we thought we would give it a go - and set out one morning to hike the 10.4 mile trail that climbs 3,343 feet to Humphreys Peak at 12,633 feet.
It was a short drive from our Airbnb to the trailhead and we left before sunrise with the goal of finishing in time for one last brunch at toasted owl. Pretty quickly we realized the trail was almost 100% snow packed, and fairly icy, and we were without microspikes. We relied heavily on our poles and rocks peaking out from the snow to gain our footing and it was slow going. At one point we ran into two guys coming down and asking if they had made it to the top - they told us they had turned around because it got too icy. Most people, understandably, would have turned around at that point.
But we forged ahead and eventually broke the treeline where we were greeted with WIND. a lot of wind. We then started what can only be described as a slow, terrifying struggle along the rocky ridge of a mountain. At many points we were legitimately crawling on our hands and knees fighting against the gusts. I had my poles under my arms because if I tried to use them, they just blew around in the wind.
I had read an AllTrails review that mentioned two false summits so I should have been mentally prepared but damn the summit actually seemed like it kept getting further and further away.
Ultimately, we called it short of the summit - it was getting too scary and miserable and turning around seemed like the smarter choice. We were both close to tears and we weren’t having an semblance of a good time.
Heading back down was equally scary, parts of my backpack were whipping me in the face, my poles were somehow making balancing harder, the trail was impossible to follow.
When we finally got back into the trees and the wind subsided a little, I finally felt like I could breathe. We started running into people who asked if we had made it to the top and we had to tell them no, but at that point I didn't even care I was so happy to be out of that situation.
The journey down was its own adventure - each step was a steep, slippery trap and I spent a lot of time on my butt. at one point Callie was laughing and crying simultaneously as we wondered how many hours this was going to take us to get back to the car.
We had considered not packing sandwiches but THANK GOD we did because eating them in a patch of sun really helped our spirits. That and me singing a lot of random songs including “You’re Never Fully Dressed Without a Smile” from Annie.
I was actually really proud of us - despite the awful conditions we didn't get too sad or mad or discouraged and by the end we found we were still happy to have spent 7 hours in the woods on our final day in Flagstaff.
My plan to hike the tallest peak in each state isn't off to a great start, and we missed brunch at Toasted Owl, but a growler and burgers from Beaver Street Brewery delivered to our Airbnb wasn't a bad way to end the day.
Right outside of Flagstaff we found this easy little loop that we did at sunset. There were some really awesome looking trees and rocks along the way.
It’s a quick 2.4 miles with only 561 feet of gain - perfect if you’re looking for something quick and close.
While waiting for our table at Dark Sky Brewing Co., we walked around downtown Flagstaff which was full of cute stores. We didn’t stop in many, but we did check out Mountain Sports Flagstaff (obsessed with these mugs!) and Babbitt’s Backcountry Outfitters.
A little over 90 minutes from downtown Flagstaff is one of the lesser known National Parks - Petrified Forest and Painted Desert.
If you’re a fan of long day hikes, you may not love this National Park. But if you’re looking for a place you can drive through and see some awesome scenery, this would be a worthwhile day trip from Flagstaff!
The petrified wood is really awesome (we checked it out by walking the Long Logs and Agate House trails) and we loved getting to see the petroglyphs on Newspaper Rock. We did the Blue Mesa Trail (.9 miles) which was probably our favorite - the bluish bentonite clay looked like elephant skin!
My personal favorite part of the day was getting to introduce Callie to Jimmy John’s - and eating it overlooking the Painted Desert.
To be honest, the only reason I’m glad we went is because it’s a check off the list of National Parks (I hope to one day visit all 62). I think we would have had a better time doing something in Flagstaff that day.
This could be it’s own entire blog post, because Sedona is truly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been! While we went as a day trip from Flagstaff, it’s definitely a place that could be a stop on your road trip for a full 1-3 days.
That being said - we fit in a good amount of Sedona sightseeing and I didn’t feel like I wasn’t ready to leave at the end of the day.
We left Flagstaff early, just as the sun was rising. We wanted to be sure we could take in the views as we drove the Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Byway (89A). The 24-mile road winds it way down 4,500 feet through a series of scenic switchbacks through Oak Creek Canyon.
It was only about a 45 minute drive until we arrived at Midgley Bridge, where we parked for a short walk to the incredible scenic views of Oak Creek Canyon and the surrounding red rock formations.
Next up was the Little Horse Trail - a 4.3 mile hike with 564 feet of elevation - nothing crazy, but with really great views. Once we got to Chicken Point Lookout, we continued on a little bit up the Broken Arrow Trail. The views were really beautiful and we didn’t see many other hikers. Unfortunately, the peaceful morning was made slightly less serene by the Pink Jeep Tours. But, c’est la vie.
After our first hike we headed to Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village to look for some Christmas gifts for friends and family. There were some really beautiful home goods and jewelry stores but I couldn’t settle on any of the big ticket items and walked away with just a cactus Christmas ornament.
What I really fell in love with were these mountain sculptures - which I might need to buy for myself when I move to a new apartment!
After some shopping we drove to the downtown area of Sedona and picked up sandwiches from Sedona Memories Bakery Cafe (both of the employees were not wearing masks, which we obviously didn’t appreciate as they made our food). I had read that their sandwiches were incredible and made on fresh-baked bread - but I guess I missed the memo that they were absolutely GIANT!
I also took some time to get my aura read - it seemed like a very Sedona thing to do. You’ll find a ton of places that offer aura readings, psychic readings, information on vortexes and other ~spiritual things. I was sad that I didn’t get a print out of my pictures, and I’m not sure I would do it again, but it was something different to try!
We took our sandwiches and headed to hike #2 - the Brins Mesa Trail (4.5 miles, 951 feet of elevation).
First of all, the sandwiches were amazing. The bread had great flavor and I am now a convert to putting cream chees on my turkey sandwiches. It was an odd assortment of ingredients (turkey, provolone cheese, cream cheese, sprouts, sunflower seeds, avocado, lettuce and cranberry sauce) but we were feeling it.
The hike had a few steep parts, we took a wrong turn, and then we wondered if there was going to be any real end point with a view but we stuck with it and the end was a really scenic spot. The wind had really picked up so we didn’t stay perched on our rock for too long, but we did spend a few minutes taking in the 360 degree red rock views and eating a little bit more of our massive sandwiches.
We returned to the car and headed to the Bell Rock trailhead lot, but followed these instructions to climb Baby Bell Rock for a stunning Sedona sunset.
With beer in hand, we scrambled to the top of the rock where we had our own private viewing (a very drunk group climbed up for about 2 minutes but quickly disappeared) as the rocks changed colors all around us. I even Facetimed my parents to let them see it!
After falling to get a table at Sedona’s most famous restaurant - Elote - we opted for dinner back at Tlaquepaque purely because El Rincon Mexican Restaurant appeared in the Google results for “best margaritas Sedona.”
We got a table right away at their outdoor patio and enjoyed some margs and Mexican - I only wish the meal hadn’t seemed so rushed.
And then it was time to say farewell to Sedona. We drove back along 89A and at one point, pulled over to take in the absolutely stunning sky full of stars. Leaning back on the hood of the car and looking up in the pitch black, it was nuts.
No trip to Arizona is complete without a visit to a hidden swimming hole (there are many to choose from). We did a trail run “The Crack” at Wet Beaver Creek on one of our driving days (between Tucson and Williams) to break up the hours in the car - but it’s about 50 minutes outside of Flagstaff.
The trail was a great run (7 miles, 500 feet of elevation gain and well-maintained) and our first taste of red rock scenery - much different than Tucson's saguaros.
When we made it to the swim hole, there were only two other people there, who had already taken the plunge! With their encouragement, Callie and I decided to jump in - from a much lower ledge.
Obviously before jumping into water, you should be sure of the depth, make sure you can see the bottom so you know nothing is below the jump area, etc.
It was FRIGID but fun and after drying a little on a sunny rock, we ran back to the car.
There are tons of options for gravel and road cycling in the Flagstaff area and had it been a little warmer, I probably would have chosen one of these rides over our trip to the Petrified Forest National Park.
Lake Mary Road - 62 Miles
Sinclair Wash - 5.7 Miles
Fort Valley Road - 14 Miles
Sunset Crater - Wupatki Loop - 60 Miles
Snowbowl Road - 6 Miles
There’s tons of hiking in the Flagstaff area. One of the others I had bookmarked was:
Little Bear to Sunset Loop
7.4 Miles | 1335 Feet of Elevation
As I mentioned, the Flagstaff area is known as a place where professional runners go for altitude training. There’s tons of great runs in the area.
A crowded but awesome Arizona favorite - I luckily got to go here on my first trip to Sedona when I was about 13! It was tons of fun - but November was a little too cold to enjoy the nature-made water slides.
Recently, I took two weeks to go on a road trip through the state of Arizona.
Traveling, or not traveling, right now is a very personal decision and one that I did not take lightly. My friend and I agreed on some important things ahead of time - we would not be doing any indoor dining, museums, bars, etc.
Some nights, eating outside in November was more comfortable than others (plot twist: Arizona isn’t always warm). Some nights we cooked in our Airbnbs. If we encountered people without masks, even outdoors, we distanced ourselves from the situation.
I will mention things throughout these Arizona city guides in regards to how certain areas, restaurants, etc. handled coronavirus protocols.
But our overall goal for the trip was to hike, run, and generally spend time outside - alone. This was not the trip for trying all of Arizona’s restaurants and bars and museums and this guide reflects that.
You can read about our first stop, Phoenix & The Superstition Mountains here!
You can read about our second stop, Tucson & Saguaro National Park here!
You can read about our third stop, Williams & The Grand Canyon here!
Our next stop was Page, Arizona!
Page is a small city of just over 7,000 people located on the border of Norther Arizona and Southern Utah. It’s smaller than the town I grew up in, yet it’s most popular local attractions, Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend, have begun to attract millions of visitors per year. That’s right - MILLIONS.
We opted for an Airbnb in town, and we absolutely loved it. I’ve never had a rental kitchen with more cooking gear! We were in heaven as we drank red wine, listened to music, and cooked ourselves a salad with roasted cauliflower, eggplant, sundried tomatoes, couscous and more.
After a stay in an Airstream, a tiny home, and a motel/trail with no electricity - we really felt like we were living large in our two bedroom, two bathroom house in Page.
We were so smitten with our kitchen, that we ate dinner both nights at our Airbnb. We didn’t make it out once while we were in Page, other than to stop at the grocery store.
Each morning of the trip we made oatmeal and coffee for breakfast and packed sandwiches to eat while we were out and about during the day - it helped save us a lot of money and most importantly limited the amount of contact with other humans!
While we were on our kayaking tour, however, a few places were recommended to us which I’ll list below (keep in mind I can’t personally vouch for any of these, but our local tour guide said they were his favorites!)
The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area has so much more to offer than photography tours of Antelope Canyon and selfies at Horseshoe Bend. I’ll include details on those, because they’re not to be missed if you’re in Page, but I’m going to start this section with the less popular picks.
I’ll give you a heads up - this hike isn’t a walk in the park. But if you’re looking for a challenge or looking to work up a sweat, with the promise of some incredibly rewarding views - this trail is a must-do! We were feeling a little cocky post Grand Canyon hike, but the Spencer Trail’s 1500+ feet of elevation over a short 1.5 miles had my legs and lungs SCREAMING!
The switchbacks are bountiful and the space between you and the side of the sizable drop-off isn’t immense - I don’t know that anyone with a fear of heights would be a big fan of this hike.
When we reached the summit (after a lot of whining from me including, “WHY ARE WE DOING THIS?”) we had the entire place to ourselves and the view was stunning. A private Horseshoe Bend, totally work the sore legs. We took a good long break at the top to sit out in the sun and take in the views.
You’ll want to bring poles - it made the descent much more enjoyable. When we made it back to the parking lot, we found ourselves a patch of sand down by the Colorado River and enjoyed (another) turkey sandwich with a view.
I’m so glad our tour guide recommended checking out Cathedral Wash, a slot canyon blissfully free of Antelope Canyon’s crowds and though very different, stunning in it’s own right!
This 3.3 mile “hike” is more of a rock climbing/scrambling puzzle for your body and brain - but it was so different and so much fun.
There were parts where we were pretty scared and our adrenaline was definitely pumping, but looking back it was all fairly doable if you pick the right spots to go down further into the canyon.
Unfortunately, we didn’t start early enough and had to turn around before we made it to the end for fear of finding ourselves in the clot canyon after sunset. But if you make it to the end - you’ll find yourself at the Colorado River.
This was my favorite sunset of the entire trip, there I said it! (We had a LOT of sunset stops). My only wish is that we’d had a beer.
Again, the Navajo Bridge was recommended to us by our kayaking tour guide, who mentioned it as a place we might find some condors. While we didn’t see any massive birds (which was actually perfectly fine by me!) we did have the entire bridge to ourselves.
Looking out into the Colorado River and Marble Canyon, seeing red rocks and the horizon stretching out as far as I could see, just absolutely and entirely surrounded by nature…I get chills just thinking about how amazing it was. We really felt like something must be wrong, had everyone else in the world disappeared and we were the only ones left? Surely that’s the only reason we could be completely alone with such an epic view while hundreds of people with selfie sticks stood at Horseshoe Bend.
I can’t promise you an entirely similar experience when you visit, but I can tell you that a sunset on the Navajo Bridge is breathtakingly beautiful and absolutely worth a stop.
Oh, and there a Glen Canyon National Recreation Area gift shop!
This 9.8 mile trail, let’s just call it 10, winds it way around Page with views of Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon area. The elevation wasn’t bad at all (just 433 feet) but we had some tired legs and this was a struggggle. Even though it wasn’t a great run, it was an awesome, well marked, well-maintained trail for a sunrise run!
Due to COVID-19, the typical Antelope Canyon tours, which explore the upper canyons, were all shut down. Navajo Nation is closed to tourism, and you need to entre Navajo lands in order to get to the upper canyons.
Luckily, the lower portion of Antelope Canyon was still accessible, and we were able to book a tour through Lake Powell Adventure Co. - we got to kayak to the entrance to the lower canyons and then hike a mile or so in.
We started at 10 am, and by the time we came out of the canyon, there were a LOT of kayaks and jet skis pulled up to shore. But while we explored, it was fairly uncrowded. There were a few girls clearly getting their Instagram on, and they were a little sassy with our tour guide, but nothing too annoying.
My favorite part of this excursion was getting to meet some new people - I didn’t realize how much I missed talking with strangers! Leave it to a global pandemic to make you realize maybe you don’t hate small talk as much as you thought you did.
Our tour guide was full of interesting information and stories and we happily chatted and paddled the whole trip. He also knew all the best spots for pictures.
The canyon itself was really beautiful - the rock is so smooth, I couldn’t stop touching it! At one point, it was a straight up zig zag of rock formations that we had to navigate through. Very cool.
While I enjoyed the tour experience, and I’m really glad we did it, it’s also possible to kayak, jet ski or rent a boat and go to the lower canyon on your own.
We opted to head to Horseshoe Bend at sunset - and were confused by the crowds leaving 10 minutes before sunset.
Anyway - entry fee is $10 - which I’m happy to support the local area - but it’s also slightly annoying that they don’t accept National Parks passes or Glen Canyon parking passes.
If you’re someone who isn’t into the touristy spots, and likes hiking- you can really skip this stop, in my opinion. It’s a boring 1 mile walk to a lookout with tons of people taking pictures. The fact that they give you a brochure about the “hike” and packing water is…ugh.
BUT I’m not here to judge - if you want a $10 Instagram picture for minimal physical effort (hey, it’s vacation, after all) then by all means make sure this is on your itinerary.
We scoped out a rock and sat and drank a prickly pear sour beer which made the experience much more enjoyable! And the sunset WAS really beautiful.
There’s SO much to do from Page. I definitely think people underestimate the area. Here are a few more ideas in case you decide to stay long (a decision I support!)
The only reason we ultimately decided against this hike is that it requires driving down a fairly long dirt road - and with our rental, we didn’t want to risk it. It probably would have been fine, but 4-wheel drive would be ideal.
The trailhead of Wire Pass is in Kanab, Utah and meets up with the Buckskin Gulch Slot Canyon within Paria Canyon - Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness.
The Wire Pass trailhead is actually the way you would navigate to the insta-famous “The Wave” rock formation that’s part of the Coyotte Buttes (North). But in order to do so, you’ll need a permit (awarded via lottery) as only 20 people are permitted to hike the Coyote Buttes (North and South) each day.
Ultimately, I’m really glad we found out about Cathedral Wash!
An arch rock and a waterfall are the draws to this 10.6 mile hike!
Whether you choose to rent a houseboat, a motorboat, a jet ski, a kayak or a standup paddle board - if I were here in the summer I would 100% spend more time on the water! There are SO many local tour companies. It’s a big party, from what I hear!
The Glen Canyon area has plenty to offer - but if you’re in Page for a longer amount of time and feel like crossing the border into Utah - there are a ton of options there as well. Within driving distance are some of Utah’s Greatest Hits including Bryce Canyon National Park (2.5 hours), Zion National Park (1 hour 45 minutes) and parts of Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument (varying distances).
Recently, I took two weeks to go on a road trip through the state of Arizona.
Traveling, or not traveling, right now is a very personal decision and one that I did not take lightly. My friend and I agreed on some important things ahead of time - we would not be doing any indoor dining, museums, bars, etc.
Some nights, eating outside in November was more comfortable than others (plot twist: Arizona isn’t always warm). Some nights we cooked in our Airbnbs. If we encountered people without masks, even outdoors, we distanced ourselves from the situation.
I will mention things throughout these Arizona city guides in regards to how certain areas, restaurants, etc. handled coronavirus protocols.
But our overall goal for the trip was to hike, run, and generally spend time outside - alone. This was not the trip for trying all of Arizona’s restaurants and bars and museums and this guide reflects that.
You can read about our first stop, Phoenix & The Superstition Mountains here!
You can read about our second stop, Tucson and Saguaro National Park here!
Stop #3 was Williams - “Gateway to the Grand Canyon.”
To say we stayed in Williams would be a little misleading. Yes, the address of our Airbnb was Williams, AZ - but our trailer/motel was really in the middle of nowhere - a 40 minute drive to downtown Williams’ restaurants and stores and a 30 minute drive to the south gate of the Grand Canyon.
Seeing as the hotels and lodges within the Grand Canyon need to be booked about a year in advance, we were lucky to be within 30 minutes of the entrance. But we felt very much in the middle of nowhere - and our second night we returned to find no power and no flushing toilet.
While I wouldn’t return to this particular Airbnb, it did make it possible to arrive at the Backcountry Visitor Center by 5:15 AM. Had we been coming from Flagstaff (the closest major city to the South Rim), the 90 minute drive may have deterred us from our full-day hiking plans.
The friendly staff at this brewery (with another location in Flagstaff) accommodated our (somewhat crazy) request to eat outdoors on a 30 degree night - dragging heat lamps over and serving up cold beers and warm mac & cheese, burgers and fries. After a 15 hour day and 19 mile hike - it might have been the happiest meal ever.
This was nothing to write home about, especially seeing as we took it to go and ate it in a motel room with plastic cutlery - but it was something easy to pick up as we passed through Williams on the way to our Airbnb.
Speaking of passing through - if you find yourself driving between Flagstaff and Phoenix - you’ll want to plan on a pit stop at Rock Springs Cafe for some roadside pie! Yep, you read that right. This popular highway stop is equipped with gift shops, a restaurant, a gas station and really really popular pie. We popped in quickly (masks didn’t seem to be popular in Black Canyon City) and bought a slice of rhubarb and a slice of banana cream, both of which were delicious.
I am so glad that Callie was so enthusiastic about the rim to rim Grand Canyon hike - it was 100% without a doubt one of the coolest experiences I’ve ever had. If you only have one day to experience the Grand Canyon - this is how you should experience it.
It took some time to figure out the logistics, but I’ll try to simplify it here for you.
THE TRAIL
While hiking a true rim to rim path (or running it) is definitely an adventure - the drive between the North & South rims is approximately 5 hours. To avoid that logistical nightmare, many people opt to hike down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon via the South Kaibab trail and back up along the slightly longer and less steep Bright Angel Trail.
According to AllTrails, this route is 17.5 miles and 4,845 feet of elevation. My Garmin recording came in at 18.25 miles and 6,130 feet of elevation. Our moving time was 6 hours and 55 minutes and start to finish, with lunch and bathroom and photo breaks, we were in the canyon for 8 hours and 45 minutes.
THE LOGISTICS
We arrived at 5:15 AM at the Backcountry Information Center (1 Backcountry Rd, Grand Canyon Village, AZ 86023). Don’t dilly dally in the car like we did - get out into the cold and stand in line for the 6 AM Hikers’ Express Shuttle (there are also shuttles at 7 AM, 8 AM and 9 AM). We nearly didn’t get a seat on the bus, which is operating at limited capacity (just 15 passengers each hour) due to COVID-19.
And yes - Arizona gets COLD. When we started our hike in November, it was about 20 degrees outside.
The shuttle (masks mandatory) will bring you to the South Kaibab Trailhead. When you finish the hike at the Bright Angel Trailhead, you’ll be about a 10 minute walk from your car at the Backcountry Information Center.
In November, some restrooms were open at points along the way (Cedar Ridge, Indian Garden) but most water was shut off for the season. You could filter from the creek, but with lower temperatures, carrying 4 liters each was plenty.
THE JOURNEY
We started off cold, with headlamps on, and nerves high. The beginning of the South Kaibab trail was icy and we were very focused on our feet and not slipping. I had to stop for a minute and look to my left - reminding myself that I was about to walk down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon. I could faintly make out the outlines of the canyon and said to Callie, “Callie - it’s the GRAND CANYON!”
As the sun started to illuminate the sky, we made it to the aptly named Ooh Aah Point, a little less than a mile into the canyon. Obviously, we stopped for some pictures (and for some oohing and aahing).
Before we knew it, we were taking off a layer or two and putting our headlamps away.
The trip down was made a LOT easier with trekking poles, I shudder to think what my knees would have felt like without them! There were some very cool parts where it seemed we were walking out into the middle of nothing before the path would take another curve. Cedar Ridge was one of my favorite bits of the South Kaibab Trail.
Excitement levels escalated as we got our first glimpse of the Colorado River’s blue water below. But it still looked so far away!
Eventually, we made it to the first of two suspension bridges we would cross - the Black Bridge (built in 1928). Unlike to the Capilano or Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridges in Vancouver - filled with wannabe Instagram influencers - we had the entire Black Bridge to OURSELVES. We got to cross the Colorado in complete solitude (and didn’t feel rushed when we obviously had our own photoshoot).
After we crossed the bridge it wasn’t long until we were at the canyon’s floor, right up close and personal with the Colorado River. Unfortunately, Phantom Ranch was closed for the season, but we still took a walk around to check it out.
Overall, the hike down was great! The sunrise, adrenaline, the sense of awe - time passed pretty quickly. South Kaibab is a trail used by the Grand Canyon mules (as is Bright Angel) so don’t be surprised if you have to wait for a pack to pass you by or if parts of the trail are, well, poopy.
By the time we reached Phantom Ranch (about 7 miles in) I was actually VERY excited to start walking UP instead of down. I hoped I wouldn’t soon regret that wish!
Pretty quickly we crossed back over the Colorado River (this time on the Silver Bridge - another suspension bridge), and started our hike to the next main rest area - Indian Garden where we figured we would stop for lunch.
The first 6 or so miles up the Bright Angel trail were so scenic and so not what I expected to find in the Grand Canyon - lush, green areas made me feel like I was in the middle of the Amazon rainforest! Bright Angel was definitely more crowded (and would become even more so the further up we got) but there were only a few times where we felt uncomfortably sandwiched between other groups of hikers.
It honestly didn’t feel too challenging between Phantom Ranch and Indian Garden - we were definitely going up, but it was gradual and beautiful and we had turkey sandwiches to look forward to. When we reached Indian Garden we found a picnic table in the creek and had the most scenic lunch I’ll probably ever experience. I never wanted to leave!
From Indian Garden we knew we only had about 4 miles left in our journey - we marveled at the fact that we felt great, but knew that people said the last 3-4 miles were the real slog.
For us, we never felt that any part of this was a slog. Just an absolutely perfect day. Ew, I sound so annoying don’t I? But seriously, I couldn’t get over how lucky I was to spend 8 hours exploring such an iconic natural wonder.
Towards the top of Bright Angel, things got slippery and icy again, but before we knew it, we had reached the end. I couldn’t help but be sad it was over. On our walk back to the car we joked, “we could totally go and do that again right now, I’m not tired at all!”
Once we sat down in the car, took our hiking boots off, and broke into the trail mix, however, the adrenaline subsided and the sleepiness hit HARD. We drove over to Mather Point and split a beer while waiting for sunset time - scrolling through our pictures and reminiscing about our favorite parts of the day.
We dragged ourselves out of the car eventually and walked over to the gift store where we couldn’t help but buy ourselves matching long sleeve t-shirts to mark the day (my longest hike ever!).
Mather Point was crowded for sunset, but not even the crowds took away from the beauty that is Grand Canyon at sunset.
In a perfect world, we would have stayed right within the Grand Canyon and we wouldn’t have showered by headlamp in a cold trailer after a 15 hour day…but other than that, I honestly wouldn’t change much. We’re already talking about wanting to run rim to rim to rim in a day - just a casual 40+ mile run.
For anyone who has ever considered a hike like this and has been deterred by the distance and the elevation - don’t underestimate yourself and the inspiration that the Grand Canyon can give you. And go in November…I promise you it’s a lot nicer hiking 18 miles in 40 degrees as opposed to 112.
Few states have as varied a terrain and climate as Arizona. It's an outdoor adventurers ultimate destination - hiking, trail running, mountain biking and kayaking opportunities abound. Follow along for all the must see destinations, must visit National Parks and must drink craft beers across the state. From Tucson to Page, this Personalized Passport travel guide will cover it all.
Few states have as varied a terrain and climate as Arizona. It's an outdoor adventurers ultimate destination - hiking, trail running, mountain biking and kayaking opportunities abound. Follow along for all the must see destinations, must visit National Parks and must drink craft beers across the state. From Tucson to Page, this guide in multiple parts will cover it all.
Professional framing is costly, hanging photos is complicated. But being surrounded by vacation pictures is a great way to keep the memories alive and inspire more travel. Here are some cheap and easy ways to display your favorite vacation pictures. Especially simple for apartment dwellers and renters!
Does coronavirus lockdown have you dying to plan a trip? Road trips can be a safe option and there are so many destinations to explore in the United States. I took a bucket list road trip to explore the White Mountain’s incredible fall foliage in New Hampshire this October. Here are some travel tips for planning your own leaf peeping vacation in one of New England’s premier destinations. Drive the Kancamagus Scenic Byway, hike Mount Washington and explore the Flume Gorge!
Not all airlines have implemented the same coronavirus travel guidelines. As a travel planner, I’ve done my best to stay informed as these rules and regulations are constantly changing and certainly have an affect on travelers’ comfort levels. Here’s a round-up of what some of the United State’s most popular airlines have promised in terms of health and safety.
Though I had to cancel my April 2020 trip to South Africa, I thought I’d share my itinerary regardless. I spent a lot of hours poring through research and information to put it together - hours that I thoroughly enjoyed. Maybe it will inspire you to add South Africa to your travel bucket list. Or maybe you’ll want my help!
March 15, 2020: “The Day the World Stopped Traveling.” This gloomy headline was the title of a recent letter to readers published by leading travel news website Skift.
Unfortunately, it’s not an exaggeration given the current global pandemic we are all being faced with.
So how can those of us with wanderlust continue to live out our travel dreams? Here are some ideas for curing your wanderlust.
London - name a more iconic city.
I’ve always been a little intimidated to tackle this city as a tourist because it just seems like there are endless things to do and see. It’s how I imagine people feel about coming to NYC. It’s not something that’s easy to experience in just a short stay.
That intimidation was why I happily took the passenger seat during a recent trip with my friends - letting them set the itinerary, make the reservations, choose the Airbnb, etc. It was really wonderful to be along for the ride and Abby did a phenomenal job making sure we got the full London experience in just 4 days.
What do I consider the full “London Experience?” Well -
No trip to London would be complete without a little magic. The “Tour for Muggles” that Bertha found has wildly high ratings on almost every website - Yelp, Timeout, TripAdvisor, etc.
One of the reasons I loved it was because it wasn’t only Harry Potter specific. You learned a good amount about the city in general. There was a fair amount of walking, one ride on the tube and it lasted about 2.5 hours in total.
We got to stop at the inspiration for some quintessential Harry Potter locales - Knockturn Alley, Diagon Alley, Ministry of Magic, The Leaky Cauldron, Azkaban and more .
It was a good mix of actual filming locations and the places that inspired things in the books and films. I loved seeing the Millennium Bridge (“Wobbly Bridge”) and hearing the story of Sir Frances Drake, a 16th Century pirate whose Golden Hind replica served as the inspiration for Durmstrang’s ship in The Goblet of Fire.
Just note that this tour doesn’t stop at Platform 9 3/4 - next time I’m in London I’d like to go and take that iconic, dorky picture!
When it started raining at the end of our walking tour, my first instinct was to be annoyed. I was wet, chilly and a little hungry. I tried to channel my crankiness into “it’s London, it’s supposed to be drizzly and gray! This is the full London experience!”
It worked, a little.
Mostly, during this time I was comforted to see that people in London are just as rude on the sidewalks as people in NYC. Just sayin’
Another charmingly British thing about walking around London were the phone booths - thought we never did get around to a photo-shoot in one. Nonetheless, we appreciated them every time we passed one.
One of my favorite things to take pictures of during the trip were all the doors covered in gorgeous flowers. They made the streets seem so springy and happy despite the fact that it was November.
So many streets with gorgeous, symmetrical flats all lined up in a perfect row. They were endlessly appealing. Especially when we found a street full of colorful ones!
My last note on walking around London - WE WERE SO SCARED TO CROSS THE STREET! Those Double-decker buses whipping around corners were absolutely terrifying (did you know the Knight Bus in Harry Potter was TWO double-decker buses stacked on top of each other?!) and we never seemed to figure out which way we should be looking before crossing the street. Eventually, we just started looking both ways to be safe.
On our last night we took a taxi home just for the novelty of driving on the opposite side of the road!
By the end of our trip, it was still fun to say “the tube,” and I was still giggling every time we came to the Cockfosters stop.
I was also still singing every time we passed Waterloo Station.
Other than one disastrous journey and the world’s longest transfer - it was fairly easy to use the tube- though the lack of direction when the trains got messed up was another similarity to NYC as were the crowded rush hour cars.
I didn’t want to spend all of our time in London walking around museums, but I do try to get in something educational on every trip. I had read a ton of good things about the Churchill War Rooms and I’m really glad that we decided to go.
It was really interesting walking around the actual underground world that existed below the streets of London where Churchill and his advisers worked during World War II.
The portion of the museum where you walk through the war rooms was fascinating, but the museum afterwards that focused on the entirety of Churchill’s life was a little less captivating.
No trip to London would have been complete without an afternoon tea! We chose to do ours at the affordable Ham Yard Hotel.
There are million articles out there listing the “best” afternoon teas in London, but we went with a recommendation from a friend and where she does tea when she’s home. While places like The Ritz and Fortnum & Mason can cost more than $76 - the afternoon tea at Ham Yard came it at a much more affordable $30.
The space was beautiful, the tea was tasty and the scones with clotted cream were…there are no words. One of the best culinary experiences of my life was spreading clotted cream and homemade passionfruit and apricot jam on a warm scone in London at afternoon tea.
(Second only to scarfing down pierogies at 7 am for breakfast in Poland!)
The rest of the food was great as well, fluffy little sandwiches and bite-sized desserts served in a tower that just screamed “TEA PARTY!”
We thoroughly enjoyed this experience and sat long after we’d finished eating, sipping our tea and warming up/drying off after our walk through the London rain.
While London hasn’t always been known as a culinary destination, in recent years a number of incredible restaurants have opened. Similar to New York, London is a city with people from all of the world - and you can eat food from all of the world here as well.
The saddest part was that with only 4 full days, we only had 8-10 meals we could realistically eat out.
Our favorites were:
This was the main event. We worked out, walked around and really got ourselves nice and hungry before our late lunch at Dishoom - what has become an incredibly well-known Indian restaurant with four locations throughout London (we ate at the Covent Garden location).
We started our meal with heavenly chai tea that was an all-you-can-drink, keep filling up your cup situation that was seriously dangerous (dangerous in the sense that I could have filled up entirely on chai tea!) It was so smooth with a nice little peppery punch at the end.
First dish out was “Bhel” - described on the menu as “cold and crunchy, light and lovely.” And that it was. It was a delightful spoonful of flavors- with puffed rice, pomegranate, tomato, onion, lime, tamarind and mint.
This seemed like a must-order, described as a Dishoom classic dish. It was the perfect dish to scoop up in the warm naan and roti (because yes, you should order both forms of bread. Duh.)
YUM. My favorite part about these dishes were how many bright, fresh herbs and spices and flavors there were. So much happening in my mouth.
“Fresh, feisty, crunch” - an apt description of this side dish of shredded veggies, raisins, mint and honey.
This was my favorite of the main dishes - I couldn’t get over how tender the chicken was swimming in a rich and creamy curry that was again pure perfection on roti and naan.
WOWOW paneer, you are a dreamy dish indeed. I could eat you forever.
The number one rule of vacation is that you must always order dessert. This was a rice pudding with hints of coconut and cardamom (my flavor of the moment) and a blueberry compote.
This meal was exceptional - so many flavors weaved together and I only wish that my stomach had had more room to order more dishes. As it was, this was our only real meal of the day.
This outdoor market has operated in London for 1,000 years. Yeah, you read that right. America is over here less than 250 years old and London has a market that’s been selling produce since 990. I can’t even really wrap my head around that.
Now, Borough Market is a cross between La Mercado in Barcelona and Chelsea Market in NYC. There’s a good mix of stalls selling fresh ingredients while others sell prepared and ready to eat fare like paella, baked goods, sandwiches, pad thai and much more.
On our walking tour we found out that all of the vendors here use ingredients purchased from other vendors to make their food! I loved that concept of them all working together to keep the market going.
We wandered around the market when it was first opening in the morning but couldn’t stay long because we had to get to our Harry Potter walking tour. After perusing the different stalls, we decided to try the thai coconut rice pancakes at Khanom Krok and oh my word were they good! They were sweet, but not overly, and they had the crispiest crunchiest outside layer before a creamy center. I still think about them longingly from time to time…
Shockingly, Bertha and I passed on the donuts from Bread Ahead, but they’re apparently very good. If I’m ever back in London, I would love to take one of their cooking classes.
The Palomar was trendy and packed when we showed up - and it’s a miracle that our small corner table held all of the dishes we ordered!
It was impossible not to be enjoy a meal in such a buzzy, beautiful restaurant.
The three of us are no strangers to eating Israeli/Mediterranean/Middle Eastern small plates together - it’s kind of our thing. So The Palomar’s Jerusalem-inspired menu was filled with our favorite things.
Including labneh (served here as a beet-infused spread), m’sabacha, handmade puffy pitas, glazed octopus and kubaneh bread served with silky tahini and tomato (again - both forms of carbs are always needed).
No trip to London would be complete without a stroll through the aisles of Harrods. Though we couldn’t afford the couture gowns and outrageously priced perfumes, we did were elated to find the plethora or free samples and delicious finds in the food hall!
One of my favorite parts were the rows upon rows of dates stuffed with all different fillings. It was incredible!
Upon landing and getting to the Airbnb, I quickly changed and headed back out the door for our first meal. Abby had made a reservation at Honey and Co., another restaurant featuring food from the Middle East.
Perusing the menu, we found ourselves distracted and salivating over the counter full of baked goods and cakes. It’s no wonder - Honey and Co. is the project of Ottolenghi’s former pastry chef Sarit Packer and husband Itamar Srulovich.
We started with the labneh - that’s never a question. It was served with the most colorful array of veggies and herbs.
Our Mudfunia main, though not colorful, was full of flavors - chicken tagine with fragrant chestnuts and topped with crispy kadaif that lent a subtle sweetness to the dish. The side salad overflowed with plump fresh figs.
Dessert was a slice of the most gorgeous cherry, pistachio and coconut cake which paired perfectly with a thick Turkish coffee spiced with cardamom. We didn’t know when we ordered that we were choosing one Honey and Co.’s original cake!
We stayed in the Chelsea neighborhood during our visit, and everyone who heard this had the same reaction: “So posh!”
Chelsea’s posh aesthetic was on full display at Farm Girl, where we ate brunch one morning. Though the food wasn’t anything to write home about, the menu was full of healthy ingredients and buzzwords - there’s fancy lattes (activated charcoal, turmeric, CBD and more - though I stuck with a Chai), avocado toast, things served in bowls and fluffy pancakes perfect for photographing.
Though reviews aren’t great, we enjoyed the meal in a pretty space.
I needed to link to that review for some excellent lines like, “At the bottom is a “cashew aioli”, which is the kind of discharge you get when you torture nuts.” Give it a read if you want a laugh. But know we weren’t offended by anything we ate at Farm Girl!
This is on everyone’s London Bucket List, right?
Wednesday and Saturday nights at Norman’s Coach & Horses turns into a sign along where patrons are handed lyrics to traditional British songs and invited to join the pianist and singer/tambourine man.
We had a blast and befriending a group of local lads - friends since elementary school and out for their monthly pub night. At one point they booked a trip years-in-the-making and their excitement results in us all screaming and a chair being lifted into the air. No one else in the place batted an eye.
It was a grand old time, especially when Abby and I headed up to the piano to sing The Shirelles’ “Will You Love Me Tomorrow” and “You’re The One That I Want” from Grease.
As someone who spends a large amount of time in New York’s Central Park, it’s hard for an urban park to impress me.
Hyde Park was beautiful! We loved walking around before our lunch at Dishoom. I finally understand what it’s like for tourists in NYC to see a chipmunk in the park and get excited - I thought it was insane when we saw a little fox running across the path!
I fell in love with this tree that we passed, which is apparently known as “The Upside Down Tree.” It was magical! It’s here if you want to go visit it!
If T-Swift writes about it in a song - it’s gotta be something you should do.
We headed to Shoreditch to explore what’s known as a trendy and eclectic neighborhood. We scoped out some vintage and design stores, looked at the street art, and eventually stopped by Cereal Killer Cafe for a peek inside the 90’s-inspired restaurant that serves all cereal all day.
It was awesome.
There was Spice Girls wallpaper, framed TY Beanie Babies, Trolls Dolls and any other relic of the 90s you can think of.
We weren’t particularly hungry, but I really wanted to try something, so we made a concoction of sugary nostalgia and snacked on ranch-coated Cheerios.
Immediately following our mid-day sugar rush, we walked into the Dark Sugars Cocoa House and emerged 20 minutes later in a full-on sugar-coma.
The two guys working the shop were like Italian grandmas who push another helping of chicken parm on you. Except that these guys were handing us cups full of rich hot chocolate, entire truffles, and pieces of dark chocolate while music bumped and they told us the story of coming from South Africa to work in the Brick Lane shop.
I left with a build-your-own-box of beautiful chocolates and truffles for my Grandma. If you’re not lucky enough to visit the shop, you can order from them online!
Maybe a slight exaggeration, but it’s my blog, so I’m allowed to use creative license.
All week, we talked about what would happen if we were eating at Ed Sheeran’s new bar/restaurant Bertie Blossoms and he walked in.
Would we ask for pictures? Would we play it cool? What would you say if you could say one sentence to Ed?
After the tube had a meltdown on our journey from Shoreditch to the Notting Hill restaurant, we felt we were due for some good luck. Especially because we had helped an incredibly pregnant women navigate the mile-long transfer through Paddington Station.
We walked into the small, but cute pub and were seated at a both next to the bar. We loved our little corgi lamp and got to business ordering a bunch of dishes to split (wild mushroom risotto, lamb meatballs, artichokes and a flatbread).
The real highlight were the snowlobe-sized glasses filled with the most incredible gin and tonics that I’m still thinking about months later. Grapefruit and juniper, mint and elderflower, rosemary and lemon - these herby cocktails really hit the spot.
At some point we realized that the people at the bar seemed flustered. The 5 people that had been there seemed to be talking in hushed voices about something. Nicer chairs were brought to the bar and a table setting was put out. They were checking their phones a lot. They were talking about someone potentially sitting upstairs. Our ears perked up and the three of us went straight to the obvious conclusion - Ed Sheeran was about to come into Bertie Blossoms for dinner.
We picked up our conversation about what we would do if presented with a living, breathing, Ed Sheeran in the flesh in the same room as us and I was getting more and more flustered.
We settled in for more gin and tonics - we were committed to seeing this through. If if it was a big old nobody that walked into the restaurant.
Our gin-drinking and patience and slight-craziness paid off and ED SHEERAN WALKED IN.
There were probably about 8 people in the restaurant total, but I still chickened out when it came to asking for a picture. He just looked like such a normal, chill guy with his little black backpack and he was RIGHT THERE in front of me.
Sadly, after a few minutes he went upstairs to eat/drink with friends and we never saw him again. But we stayed until well past closing talking to the waitstaff and soaking in what had just happened. It was apparently the first time he’d come since opening night!
FATE. And all I have is a picture of this corgi lamp.
What trip is complete without a scenic overlook? In London, we chose a free trip to the observation level at the Tate Modern museum.
Entry is free, though some exhibits and areas of the museum require paid tickets. After checking out the views at the top, we walked around some of the free areas… modern and contemporary art is my favorite art!
Other places around London recommended for good views are:
One Tree Hill (Free)
Sky Garden (Free, but need a reservation)
The London Eye (£27-£44)
One New Change Rooftop (Free)
The Shard (£30)
ArcelorMittal Orbit (Slide Down! £11-22)
Other highlights from our trip included a walk through the beautiful Daunt Books
A workout at the local F45
Walking through Paddington Station and snapping a picture with the cute little bear statue
And playing board games at Draughts Board Game Cafe. Our favorite was Colorbrain Disney where we answered trivia questions like, “What color is the jewel in Jasmine’s headband?” We are almost 30 years old, I swear.
I particularly loved walking through the Leake Street Tunnel and seeing all of the graffiti art - when we were there, there were multiple groups in the middle of painting!
Sipping wine in a hidden little alleyway at Gordon’s Wine Bar was a nice way to kill some time before a nearby dinner reservation. The heat lamps helped, but it would have been more enjoyable in the summer - and with less smokers!
I was completely charmed by London - it really did have a magical feel to it. The most enjoyable part was not having a ton of expectations and just going with the flow - there was no pressure to do every touristy thing or to leave feeling super educated on British history - we just wandered and ate and checked off the top few things on everyone’s list.
It’s a city you can keep going back to without ever running out of things to do or places to see and as a New Yorker, I felt very at ease with the big city feel. Everything is pretty and has so much history! I could just walk around forever. And we really lucked out with pleasant late-fall weather with a touch of Christmas in the air.
Have a favorite place in London? Let me know in the comments!
And let me know if you got the title reference…
2019 was pretty great. I always like ending the year with a trip down memory lane!
